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What is Ascorbyl Glucoside? Cosmetic usage, properties, and regulatory insights

Ascorbyl Glucoside is a stable form of vitamin C that is widely used in cosmetic formulations for its antioxidant properties. This ingredient is a glycoside of ascorbic acid, which allows it to be more stable and less prone to oxidation compared to traditional vitamin C derivatives.

Ascorbyl Glucoside is known for its ability to brighten the skin, promote an even skin tone, and provide protection against environmental stressors. Additionally, it may support collagen synthesis, contributing to improved skin texture and elasticity. Its compatibility with various skin types makes it a popular choice in serums, creams, and other skincare products.

CAS Number: 129499-78-1

Molecular Formula: C12H18O11

Synonyms:

  • L-ascorbic acid 2-O-alpha-glucoside
  • ascorbic acid 2-glucoside
  • 2-O-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl-L-ascorbic acid
  • ascorbic acid 2-O-glucoside

Properties of Ascorbyl Glucoside

Chemical Identifiers

EC Number425-980-0
UNII2V52R0NHXW
InChIKeyMLSJBGYKDYSOAE-DCWMUDTNSA-N
SMILESC([C@@H]1[C@H]([C@@H]([C@H]([C@H](O1)OC2=C([C@H](OC2=O)[C@H](CO)O)O)O)O)O)O
IUPAC Name(2R)-2-[(1S)-1,2-dihydroxyethyl]-3-hydroxy-4-[(2R,3R,4S,5S,6R)-3,4,5-trihydroxy-6-(hydroxymethyl)oxan-2-yl]oxy-2H-furan-5-one
InChIInChI=1S/C12H18O11/c13-1-3(15)9-8(19)10(11(20)22-9)23-12-7(18)6(17)5(16)4(2-14)21-12/h3-7,9,12-19H,1-2H2/t3-,4+,5+,6-,7+,9+,12+/m0/s1

Physical and Chemical Properties

Ascorbyl Glucoside is a stable form of vitamin C, chemically known as a glucoside derivative of ascorbic acid. It appears as a white to pale yellow powder and is soluble in water, making it suitable for various cosmetic formulations. The compound has a molecular formula of C12H14O10 and a molecular weight of approximately 338.24 g/mol.

Ascorbyl Glucoside exhibits antioxidant properties, effectively neutralizing free radicals, and promotes collagen synthesis in the skin. Its stability over time allows it to maintain potency in formulations, providing benefits such as brightening skin tone and improving overall skin texture.

Structural Properties

Ascorbyl Glucoside is a compound with moderate complexity and molecular weight. It has a neutral charge and contains a significant number of hydrogen bond donors and acceptors, indicating its potential for interaction with other molecules. The compound is stable and canonicalized, meaning it adopts a standard structure.

It has a relatively small number of rotatable bonds and a specific polar surface area. There are no isotopes or undefined stereocenters, making its structure relatively straightforward. This makes Ascorbyl Glucoside a stable and reactive molecule in various formulations.

PropertyValue
XLogP3-3.1
Complexity478
Exact Mass338.08491139 g/mol
Formal Charge0
Heavy Atom Count23
Molecular Weight338.26 g/mol
Monoisotopic Mass338.08491139 g/mol
Isotope Atom Count0
Rotatable Bond Count5
Compound Is CanonicalizedYes
Hydrogen Bond Donor Count7
Hydrogen Bond Acceptor Count11
Covalently-Bonded Unit Count1
Topological Polar Surface Area186 Ų
Defined Atom Stereocenter Count7
Defined Bond Stereocenter Count0
Undefined Atom Stereocenter Count0
Undefined Bond Stereocenter Count0

Uses of Ascorbyl Glucoside in Cosmetics

Functional role in cosmetics:

  • Ascorbyl Glucoside is used as a Antioxidant agent in cosmetics.

Cosmetic Products Containing Ascorbyl Glucoside

Recent products using Ascorbyl Glucoside in their cosmetic formulations

  • Algo Vita Ascorbyl Glucoside 15%
  • The Ordinary Ascorbyl Glucoside Solution 12%
  • APLB Ascorbyl Glucoside Peptide Ampoule Serum
  • APLB Ascorbyl Glucoside Peptide Facial Cream
  • Dermocrazy Hidratante 15% Vitamina C Complex (Ascorbyl Glucoside + Zinc)

Top companies using Ascorbyl Glucoside in their cosmetic products

  • The Ordinary
  • APLB
  • Dermocrazy
  • Algo Vita

How Ascorbyl Glucoside Works in Formulations

Ascorbyl Glucoside is commonly used in cosmetics for its stability and ability to deliver the benefits of vitamin C without the instability issues associated with pure ascorbic acid.

Ideal Concentration and Benefits in Different Formulations

Brightening Serums and Creams

One of the most common uses of Ascorbyl Glucoside is in brightening products that target uneven skin tone and hyperpigmentation.

  • Concentration: 2%–5%
  • Benefit: Ascorbyl Glucoside gradually brightens the skin through the sustained release of vitamin C. Ideal for serums and creams that focus on skin radiance and clarity.

Anti-Aging Products

Incorporated into anti-aging formulations to boost collagen production and reduce fine lines. Often combined with other antioxidants like vitamin E for enhanced efficacy.

UV Protection Products

Used in sunscreens and after-sun care products to combat UV-induced free radical damage. Enhances photoprotection when paired with broad-spectrum filters.

Compatibility with Other Ingredients

Highly stable across a wide pH range (3–7), making it versatile for various formulations. Water-soluble and compatible with aqueous systems but requires stabilization in high-temperature processes. Gentle on sensitive skin compared to pure vitamin C.

Stability and Shelf Life

Ascorbyl Glucoside is a highly stable ingredient with a long shelf life when it’s stored correctly. Use pump bottles or other airtight packaging to minimize exposure to air, which could affect stability

  • Shelf life: 24–36 months
  • Best storage: Store in airtight containers, away from light and heat to preserve efficacy.

Formulation Challenges and Troubleshooting

Ascorbyl Glucoside presents minimal challenges compared to other vitamin C derivatives but still requires attention during formulation:

Stability Issues

Although highly stable, exposure to extreme heat or UV light can degrade Ascorbyl Glucoside over time.

Solution: Store products in opaque or UV-resistant containers. Avoid high-temperature processing during manufacturing.

Solubility Limitations

Ascorbyl Glucoside is water-soluble but may require careful solubilization in high-concentration formulations.

Solution: Use appropriate solubilizers or emulsifiers when incorporating into complex systems.

Efficacy Variability

Conversion rate to active vitamin C may vary depending on individual skin enzymatic activity.

Solution: Combine with complementary ingredients like niacinamide or ferulic acid for enhanced performance.

Packaging Compatibility

Ascorbyl Glucoside is generally compatible with most packaging materials but requires protection from air and light.

Solution: Use airtight, UV-resistant containers to maintain product stability.

Is Ascorbyl Glucoside Safe in Cosmetics?

Safety reports for Ascorbyl Glucoside are given below:

  • Safety Assessment of Ascorbyl Glucoside and Sodium Ascorbyl Glucoside as Used in Cosmetics. Download PDF

Regulatory Considerations for Using Ascorbyl Glucoside in Cosmetic Formulations

Few Regulatory considerations are to be taken into account before using Ascorbyl Glucoside as an ingredient. Given below is the list of those regulations:

New Zealand EPA Inventory of Chemical Status

L-Ascorbic acid, 2-O-.alpha.-D-glucopyranosyl- does not have an individual approval but may be used as a component in a product covered by a group standard. It is not approved for use as a chemical in its own right.

The Australian Inventory of Industrial Chemicals

L-Ascorbic acid, 2-O-.alpha.-D-glucopyranosyl- requires obligations to provide information. You must notify the authorities within 28 days if the circumstances of your importation or manufacture differ from those in the assessment.

Ascorbyl Glucoside Side Effects

Ascorbyl Glucoside is a stable derivative of vitamin C widely used in cosmetic formulations for its antioxidant and skin-brightening properties. It is generally regarded as safe for topical use, with low irritation potential. Studies indicate no mutagenic, teratogenic, or carcinogenic effects. It is well-tolerated by most skin types and has a favorable safety profile.

Symptoms

  • Eye Exposure: May cause mild irritation or redness.
  • Skin Exposure: Prolonged contact may lead to dryness or slight irritation.
  • Ingestion Exposure: Generally considered safe, but excessive amounts may cause gastrointestinal discomfort.
  • Inhalation Exposure: No significant effects reported under normal conditions of use.

Interactions

No significant interactions with other chemicals are reported. Ascorbyl Glucoside is stable in cosmetic formulations and does not exhibit reactive properties under normal usage conditions.

Target Organs

Primarily affects the skin when applied topically. No systemic target organ effects have been identified.

Toxicity Data

LD50 (Lethal Dose, 50%) for Ascorbyl Glucoside exceeds 2,000 mg/kg in animal studies, indicating low acute toxicity.

Adverse Effects

Prolonged use on sensitive skin may cause mild irritation or allergic reactions in rare cases. No systemic adverse effects have been observed.

Exposure Routes

Primary exposure route is dermal application in cosmetic products.

Antidote and Emergency Treatment

  • Immediate First Aid: For eye exposure, rinse thoroughly with water. For skin exposure, wash with soap and water. In case of ingestion, drink water to dilute and seek medical advice if large amounts are consumed.
  • Basic Treatment: Treat any irritation symptomatically. No specific treatment is required for minor exposures.
  • Advanced Treatment: Not applicable as Ascorbyl Glucoside exhibits low toxicity. Monitor for allergic reactions in sensitive individuals and treat accordingly.

Environmental and Sustainability Impact

Ascorbyl Glucoside is a stable derivative of vitamin C widely used in skincare for its antioxidant, brightening, and anti-aging properties. Its use raises environmental and sustainability considerations:

Environmental Impact

  • Water Pollution: Ascorbyl Glucoside is water-soluble and biodegradable, posing minimal risk to aquatic environments when used in typical cosmetic concentrations.
  • Carbon Footprint: The production of Ascorbyl Glucoside involves chemical synthesis processes that may contribute to greenhouse gas emissions. Using renewable energy sources during manufacturing can reduce its carbon footprint.

Sustainability

The sustainability of Ascorbyl Glucoside depends on its production methods and the sourcing of raw materials.

  • Raw Materials: Derived from glucose and ascorbic acid, both of which can be sourced from renewable plant-based origins. However, synthetic production is more common.
  • Energy Use: Manufacturing processes require moderate energy input. Cleaner production methods could improve its sustainability.
  • End-of-Life Impact: Ascorbyl Glucoside degrades into non-toxic components in the environment, posing minimal long-term ecological risks.

Biodegradability and Toxicity

Ascorbyl Glucoside is readily biodegradable and non-toxic to the environment under normal use conditions.

Ammonia Toxicity: Not applicable. Ascorbyl Glucoside does not release ammonia or harmful byproducts during decomposition.

Eco-Friendly Alternatives

While Ascorbyl Glucoside is eco-friendly, alternative vitamin C derivatives may be used in certain formulations:

  • Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP): A stable vitamin C derivative with similar antioxidant properties but less water solubility.
  • Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (SAP): Another stable derivative with comparable brightening and anti-aging benefits.
  • Natural Vitamin C Extracts: Derived from fruits like kakadu plum or acerola cherry, offering a more natural alternative.

Alternatives of Ascorbyl Glucoside and Comparative Analysis

Given below is the list of alternative ingredients that can be used in place of Ascorbyl Glucoside in cosmetic formulations:

  • Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
  • Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate
  • Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate
  • L-Ascorbic Acid (Pure Vitamin C)

Comparative analysis of Ascorbyl Glucoside alternative ingredients:

IngredientsStrengthsLimitationsEfficacyCostStabilityCompatibilitySafety
Sodium Ascorbyl PhosphateStable vitamin C derivative with antioxidant and skin brightening properties

Water-soluble and less irritating than ascorbic acid

Promotes collagen synthesis and reduces pigmentation
Slower conversion to active vitamin C in skin

May require higher concentrations for efficacy
Moderate to high antioxidant and brighteningModerateHighGood in aqueous and emulsified systemsGenerally safe and well tolerated
Magnesium Ascorbyl PhosphateStable, water-soluble vitamin C derivative

Effective antioxidant and skin brightener

Less irritating and suitable for sensitive skin
Requires enzymatic conversion to active vitamin C

Efficacy depends on formulation and skin penetration
Moderate antioxidant and collagen boostingModerateHighCompatible with various cosmetic basesSafe and non-irritating
Ascorbyl TetraisopalmitateOil-soluble vitamin C derivative with good skin penetration

Potent antioxidant and collagen booster

Improves skin tone and reduces pigmentation
Less water-soluble, requiring oil-based formulations

Higher cost and formulation complexity
High antioxidant and brightening effectsHighHigh (oil stable)Best in oil-based or emulsified productsGenerally safe
L-Ascorbic Acid (Pure Vitamin C)Most potent antioxidant and collagen stimulator

Extensively studied with proven anti-aging and brightening effects
Highly unstable and prone to oxidation

Requires low pH for stability and efficacy

Can cause skin irritation and sensitivity
Very highLow to moderateLow (unstable in air, light, and neutral pH)Limited by pH and formulation constraintsPotentially irritating at high concentrations

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