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What is Azulene? Cosmetic usage, alternatives, and regulatory insights

Azulene is a naturally occurring compound derived from the distillation of chamomile oil and other plant sources. It is characterized by its deep blue color and is known for its soothing and anti-inflammatory properties. In cosmetic formulations, Azulene is often used for its calming effects on the skin, making it a popular choice in products designed for sensitive or irritated skin.

Its antioxidant properties also contribute to skin health by helping to protect against environmental stressors. Azulene is commonly found in serums, creams, and masks, enhancing the overall efficacy of skincare products while promoting a balanced complexion.

CAS Number: 275-51-4

Molecular Formula: C10H8

Synonyms:

  • cyclopentacycloheptene
  • Azulekeep

Uses of Azulene in Cosmetics

Functional role in cosmetics:

  • Azulene is used as a soothing agent in cosmetics.

Cosmetic Products Containing Azulene

Recent products using Azulene in their cosmetic formulations

  • Rosa Graf Chamomile Paste
  • Le Mieux Hydra Azulene Gel Masque
  • ClearChoice Soothing Healing Lotion
  • Holly Land Azulene Lotion
  • Cellex-C Clear Complexion Complex
  • ClearChoice Hydrating Masque + Night Therapy
  • Essence de Beauté Aloe And Azulene Gel Masque
  • Tuel Balance Deep Pore Cleansing Oil
  • La Luer Hyaluronic Conductive Treatment Gel
  • My Dermatician Takeaway Tonic
  • Renee Rouleau Bio Calm Repair Masque
  • Tuel Balance Deep Pore Cleansing Duo
  • haple Blue Tanzylene Sensitive Barrier Serum
  • Pevonia Sensitive Skin Lotion
  • haple Haple Blue Tanzylene Sensitive Barrier Moisturizer
  • Safe and Саrе® for kids Baby Moisturizing Milk
  • Tuel Control Yourself Gel Cleanser
  • ClearChoice Hydrating Balance
  • ClearChoice Hydrating Balance
  • Prana Spaceuticals Sea Spray Facial Toner
  • ClearChoice CopperICE Cream

Top companies using Azulene in their cosmetic products

  • Rosa Graf
  • Le Mieux
  • ClearChoice
  • HL
  • Holly Land
  • Fitocose
  • Cellex-C
  • Essence de Beauté
  • Tuel
  • La Luer
  • My Dermatician
  • Renee Rouleau
  • haple
  • Pevonia

Regulatory Considerations for Using Azulene in Cosmetic Formulations

Few regulatory considerations are to be taken into account before using Azulene as an ingredient. Given below is the list of those regulations:

New Zealand EPA Inventory of Chemical Status: Azulene does not have an individual approval but may be used as a component in a product covered by a group standard. It is not approved for use as a chemical in its own right.

The Australian Inventory of Industrial Chemicals: Azulene is listed as a chemical on the Australian Inventory of Industrial Chemicals.

Alternatives of Azulene and Comparative Analysis

Given below is the list of alternative ingredients that can be used in place of Azulene in cosmetic formulations:

  • Squalane
  • Blue Tansy
  • Chamomile Extract
  • Calendula Extract
  • Sea Buckthorn Oil

Comparative analysis of Azulene alternative ingredients:

IngredientsStrengthsLimitationsEfficacyCostStabilityCompatibilitySafety
SqualaneHigh stability and compatibility with most formulations

Cost-effective and widely available

Non-comedogenic, suitable for dry/sensitive skin
Lacks anti-inflammatory potency compared to azulene

Primarily functions as an emollient, not a therapeutic active
Moderate (hydration)LowHighUniversalNon-irritating
Blue TansyContains chamazulene with anti-inflammatory properties

Calms sensitive skin and reduces redness

Compatible with serums, oils, and moisturizers
Higher cost due to extraction complexity

Potential allergenicity in some users
High (calming)HighModerateOils/serumsPotential allergen risk
Chamomile ExtractRich in bisabolol (soothes irritation and strengthens skin barrier)

Stable in formulations and cost-efficient
Less effective for severe inflammation compared to azuleneModerate (soothing)LowHighUniversalNon-irritating
Calendula ExtractAccelerates wound healing and reduces dryness

Safe for use in sensitive areas (e.g., around eyes)
Limited evidence for efficacy in chronic inflammatory conditionsModerateModerateHighUniversalNon-irritating
Sea Buckthorn OilHigh in antioxidants (repairs lipid barrier and reduces scarring)

Compatible with anti-aging and dry skin formulations
Can oxidize quickly, requiring stabilizersModerate to high (antioxidant, repair)ModerateLow to moderate (needs stabilizers)Oils, anti-aging productsGenerally safe

How Azulene Works in Formulations

Azulene is a skin-soothing and anti-inflammatory ingredient commonly used in cosmetics, particularly in products formulated for sensitive or irritated skin. It is effective in calming redness and reducing inflammation, making it a key component in products targeting conditions like rosacea, eczema, and post-procedure skin.

Ideal Concentration and Benefits in Different Formulations

Soothing Creams and Lotions

Azulene is often used in moisturizers and creams to calm redness and skin irritation.

  • Concentration: 0.1%–1%
  • Benefit: Helps reduce inflammation and soothes the skin, making it ideal for sensitive skin formulations.

Cleansers and Toners

In gentle cleansers and toners, Azulene helps remove impurities while calming and reducing redness and inflammation.

  • Concentration: 0.5%–1%
  • Benefit: Works alongside hydrating ingredients like glycerin or hyaluronic acid to leave skin feeling calm and hydrated.

Face Masks and Serums

Azulene is also commonly used in hydrating masks or serums, where it helps nourish the skin and repair the skin barrier.

  • Concentration: 1%–3%
  • Benefit: Contributes to a smoother complexion by reducing sensitivity and enhancing skin hydration.

Compatibility with Other Ingredients

Azulene is sensitive to heat, light, and pH changes and requires stabilization in formulations. Compatible with oils, alcohols, and other organic solvents but less soluble in water. May impart a blue or violet tint to formulations due to its natural color.

Stability and Shelf Life

Azulene is stable under normal storage conditions but needs to be protected from heat and light.

  • Shelf life: 12–24 months, depending on the stability of the formulation
  • Best storage: Store in airtight containers, away from moisture, heat, and light to preserve its efficacy. Use opaque containers to minimize exposure to light and air, ensuring the ingredient remains stable.

Formulation Challenges and Troubleshooting

While Azulene offers significant benefits as a cosmetic ingredient, it presents certain formulation challenges:

Stability Issues

Azulene is sensitive to light, heat, and pH variations, which can degrade its efficacy over time.

Solution: Use antioxidants or UV-blocking packaging to enhance stability. Maintain a neutral pH in formulations.

Color Interference

The intense blue color of Azulene may affect the aesthetic appeal of certain formulations.

Solution: Use at low concentrations or pair with complementary pigments to balance the final product color.

Skin Sensitivity Potential

Azulene may cause mild irritation in rare cases when used in high concentrations.

Solution: Conduct patch testing before use. Limit concentrations to recommended levels.

Packaging Compatibility

Azulene’s sensitivity to light requires careful selection of packaging materials.

Solution: Use opaque or UV-resistant containers to protect the product from degradation.

Is Azulene Safe in Cosmetics?

Safety reports for Azulene are given below:

  • Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Azulene. Download PDF

Environmental and Sustainability Impact

Azulene is a naturally occurring compound extracted from the volatile oils of plants like chamomile. It is widely used in cosmetics for its anti-inflammatory and skin-soothing properties. While beneficial, its use has environmental and sustainability considerations:

Environmental Impact

  • Water Pollution: Azulene is biodegradable and poses minimal risk to aquatic environments when used in small quantities. However, improper disposal of azulene containing products may contribute to localized water contamination.
  • Carbon Footprint: The extraction of Azulene from plant sources involves energy-intensive processes such as distillation, contributing to greenhouse gas emissions. Sustainable sourcing practices can mitigate this impact.

Sustainability

The sustainability of Azulene depends on its sourcing and production methods.

  • Raw Materials: Azulene is derived from renewable plant sources like chamomile. However, overharvesting of these plants could disrupt ecosystems if not managed sustainably.
  • Energy Use: Extraction and purification processes require significant energy input. Utilizing renewable energy sources could reduce its environmental footprint.
  • End-of-Life Impact: Azulene breaks down naturally in the environment through microbial activity, posing minimal long-term ecological risks.

Biodegradability and Toxicity

Azulene is readily biodegradable and generally non-toxic to the environment. However, high concentrations may cause temporary irritation to aquatic organisms.

Ammonia Toxicity: Not applicable. Azulene does not release ammonia or similar harmful byproducts during decomposition.

Eco-Friendly Alternatives

While Azulene itself is eco-friendly, alternative soothing agents may be used in certain formulations:

  • Centella Asiatica Extract: A natural anti-inflammatory ingredient with similar skin-calming properties.
  • Bisabolol: Derived from chamomile, bisabolol offers comparable soothing effects with a lower environmental extraction cost.
  • Synthetic Azulene Derivatives: Lab-synthesized Azulene can reduce reliance on plant-based resources while maintaining efficacy.

Azulene Side Effects

Azulene has been associated with various toxicological effects. In vitro studies indicate that Azulene can induce cytotoxicity in certain cell lines, potentially leading to cell death. The compound may also exhibit mutagenic properties, as some studies have shown that it can cause DNA damage.

The reactive nature of Azulene derivatives can lead to the formation of free radicals, which can further contribute to oxidative stress in biological systems. Additionally, exposure to Azulene can provoke inflammatory responses, which may exacerbate its toxic effects.

Prolonged or high-level exposure may result in skin irritation and sensitization. While Azulene is often used in cosmetic formulations, its potential for adverse effects necessitates caution in its application and further research into its safety profile.

Symptoms

Acute exposure to PAHs causes irritation and inflammation of the skin and lung tissue.

Treatment

There is no know antidote for PAHs. Exposure is usually handled with symptomatic treatment.

Toxicity Data

The oral LD50 of Azulene in rats is greater than 4000 mg/kg. The intraperitoneal LD50 is 180 mg/kg, while the subcutaneous LD50 is 520 mg/kg in rats.

Health Effects

PAHs are carcinogens and have been associated with the increased risk of skin, respiratory tract, bladder, stomach, and kidney cancers. They may also cause reproductive effects and depress the immune system.

Exposure Routes

Azulene may enter the body through oral ingestion or inhalation.

Carcinogen Classification

Azulene is not classified as a carcinogen by the International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC).

Properties of Azulene

Chemical Identifiers

EC Number205-993-6
UNII82R6M9MGLP
InChIKeyCUFNKYGDVFVPHO-UHFFFAOYSA-N
SMILESC1=CC=C2C=CC=C2C=C1
IUPAC Nameazulene
InChIInChI=1S/C10H8/c1-2-5-9-7-4-8-10(9)6-3-1/h1-8H

Physical and Chemical Properties

Azulene is a hydrocarbon with the chemical formula C10H8, characterized by its deep blue color. It is a bicyclic compound composed of a fused five-membered and seven-membered ring. Azulene exhibits a melting point of approximately 100 °C and a boiling point around 170 °C.

It is less dense than water, with a density of about 1.01 g/cm³. This compound is notable for its strong absorption in the ultraviolet-visible spectrum, making it useful in various applications, including cosmetics and pharmaceuticals. Azulene is also known for its anti-inflammatory and soothing properties, often utilized in skincare formulations.

PropertyValue
Kovats Retention Index1296

Structural Properties

Azulene is a molecule with a moderate complexity and a fairly simple structure. It has a relatively small molecular weight and no formal charge. This compound is canonicalized, meaning it has a standardized form. It does not participate in hydrogen bonding, and it has only one covalent bond unit.

Its surface area and the number of stereocenters (important for defining molecular chirality) are minimal, indicating it doesn’t have complex 3D shapes. Overall, Azulene is a straightforward molecule in terms of bonding and structure, with a relatively low potential for reactivity or interactions in certain chemical environments.

PropertyValue
XLogP33.2
Complexity94.6
Exact Mass128.062600255 g/mol
Formal Charge0
Heavy Atom Count10
Molecular Weight128.17 g/mol
Monoisotopic Mass128.062600255 g/mol
Isotope Atom Count0
Rotatable Bond Count0
Compound Is CanonicalizedYes
Hydrogen Bond Donor Count0
Hydrogen Bond Acceptor Count0
Covalently-Bonded Unit Count1
Topological Polar Surface Area0 Ų
Defined Atom Stereocenter Count0
Defined Bond Stereocenter Count0
Undefined Atom Stereocenter Count0
Undefined Bond Stereocenter Count0

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