Behenic Acid is a saturated fatty acid derived from various natural sources, including the seeds of the Moringa tree and certain vegetable oils. It is commonly used in cosmetic formulations due to its emollient properties, which help to soften and smooth the skin.
Behenic Acid also acts as a thickening agent and stabilizer, enhancing the texture and consistency of creams and lotions. Additionally, it can improve the spreadability of products, making it a valuable ingredient in a wide range of personal care items, from moisturizers to hair conditioners. Its ability to form a protective barrier on the skin further contributes to its popularity in cosmetic applications.
CAS Number: 112-85-6
Molecular Formula: C22H44O2
Synonyms:
- docosanoic acid
- behenic acid, aluminum salt
- behenic acid, zinc salt
- behenic acid, lithium salt
- behenic acid, silver (+1) salt
- behenic acid, barium salt
- behenic acid, ferrium (+3) salt
- behenic acid, sodium salt
- behenic acid, cadmium salt
- behenic acid, potassium salt
Properties of Behenic Acid
Chemical Identifiers
| EC Number | 204-010-8 |
| UNII | H390488X0A |
| InChIKey | UKMSUNONTOPOIO-UHFFFAOYSA-N |
| SMILES | CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)O |
| IUPAC Name | docosanoic acid |
| InChI | InChI=1S/C22H44O2/c1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8-9-10-11-12-13-14-15-16-17-18-19-20-21-22(23)24/h2-21H2,1H3,(H,23,24) |
Physical and Chemical Properties
Behenic Acid is a long-chain saturated fatty acid characterized by its appearance as either pellets or large crystalline structures. This compound is a white, waxy solid at room temperature, with a melting point of approximately 80-82°C. It is insoluble in water but soluble in organic solvents such as ethanol and ether.
Behenic Acid has a molecular formula of C22H44O2 and a molecular weight of 340.57 g/mol. Its chemical structure features a long hydrocarbon chain, contributing to its waxy texture and physical properties, making it useful in various applications, including cosmetics and food products.
| Property | Value |
| LogP | 9.910 |
| Density | 0.8221 at 100°C/4°C |
| Color/Form | Waxy solid |
| Solubility | 0.102 g are sol in 100 g of 90% ethanol at 17°C 0.218 g are sol in 100 ml of 91.5% ethanol at 25°C 0.116 g are sol in 100 ml of 86.2% ethanol at 25°C 0.011 g are sol in 100 ml of 63.07% ethanol at 25°C 0.1922 g are sol in 100 g of ether at 16°C |
| Boiling Point | 306°C at 60 mm Hg |
| Melting Point | 79.95°C |
| Vapor Pressure | 0.00000007 [mmHg] |
| Refractive Index | 1.4270 at 100°C/D |
| Kovats Retention Index | 2567 |
| Collision Cross Section | 193.1 Ų [M-H]- [CCS Type: DT; Buffer gas: N2; Sample Type: Human bronchoalveolar lavage fluid (BALF); Dataset: Unambiguous Lipids] |
| Other Experimental Properties | Neutralization value: 164.73 |
Structural Properties
Behenic Acid is a complex molecule with 24 atoms, mainly made up of heavy atoms. It has a high molecular weight, and its structure includes 20 rotatable bonds. The compound is canonical, meaning it has a standardized form. It can form hydrogen bonds, with one donor and two acceptors. Its surface area is moderate, and it doesn’t contain any stereocenters, which are points where atoms are arranged in a specific way. In summary, Behenic Acid is a large and stable compound with specific bonding properties but without complex structural centers.
| Property | Value |
| XLogP3 | 9.6 |
| Complexity | 250 |
| Exact Mass | 340.334130642 g/mol |
| Formal Charge | 0 |
| Heavy Atom Count | 24 |
| Molecular Weight | 340.6 g/mol |
| Monoisotopic Mass | 340.334130642 g/mol |
| Isotope Atom Count | 0 |
| Rotatable Bond Count | 20 |
| Compound Is Canonicalized | Yes |
| Hydrogen Bond Donor Count | 1 |
| Hydrogen Bond Acceptor Count | 2 |
| Covalently-Bonded Unit Count | 1 |
| Topological Polar Surface Area | 37.3 Ų |
| Defined Atom Stereocenter Count | 0 |
| Defined Bond Stereocenter Count | 0 |
| Undefined Atom Stereocenter Count | 0 |
| Undefined Bond Stereocenter Count | 0 |
Uses of Behenic Acid in Cosmetics
Functional role in cosmetics:
- Behenic Acid is used as a emulsifying agent in cosmetics.
Other uses:
- Used as a solids separation agent
- Used in lubricants and lubricant additives
- Also used as a surfactant
Cosmetic Products Containing Behenic Acid
Recent products using Behenic Acid in their cosmetic formulations
- OMS Crema Hidratante Con Extracto De UVA
- Clé de Peau Beauté Protective Fortifying Emulsion Spf 22
- Supergoop! Invincible Setting Powder Spf 45
- Rationale Dna Night Cream
- Purito Centella Green Level Recovery Cream
- SkinBetter Hydration Boosting Cream
- SkinBetter Hydration Boosting Cream Gold Bond Cracked Skin Relief
- OZIO Royal Jelly All In One Face Gel
Top companies using Behenic Acid in their cosmetic products
- Clé de Peau Beauté
- Supergoop!
- Rationale
- Purito
- SkinBetter
- OZIO
How Behenic Acid Works in Formulations
Behenic Acid is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to improve texture, provide moisture retention, and act as an emulsifier.
Ideal Concentration and Benefits in Different Formulations
Moisturizers and Creams
Behenic Acid is often included in moisturizers and creams to boost hydration and improve the overall skin texture. It keeps the skin hydrated and smooth, making it ideal for dry skin care products.
- Concentration: 1%–5%
- Benefit: It forms a protective barrier on the skin, helping to prevent water loss and maintain moisture.
Hair Conditioners and Shampoos
In hair care formulations, Behenic Acid is used for its smoothing and detangling effects. It is found in hair conditioners and shampoos to enhance manageability and smoothness.
- Concentration: Typically below 2%
- Benefit: Provides lubrication to the hair, improving texture and moisture retention.
Makeup Products (e.g., Foundations)
Used in makeup formulations to enhance spreadability and provide a smooth finish. Contributes to product stability by acting as an emulsifier.
Compatibility with Other Ingredients
Compatible with oils, waxes, and other fatty acids, making it versatile for various formulations. Stable across a wide pH range but may require stabilization in high-temperature processes. May not be suitable for individuals prone to fungal acne; patch testing is recommended.
Stability and Shelf Life
Behenic Acid is generally stable, with a long shelf life, if stored properly. Use pump bottles or sealed jars to minimize exposure to air and maintain the product’s performance
- Shelf life: 24–36 months
- Best storage: Store in airtight containers away from heat and moisture to preserve its efficacy.
Formulation Challenges and Troubleshooting
While Behenic Acid offers significant benefits as a cosmetic ingredient, it presents certain formulation challenges:
Texture Variability
Behenic Acid may affect the texture of formulations if not properly balanced with other ingredients.
Solution: Combine with complementary emollients like glycerin or ceramides for optimal texture.
Skin Sensitivity Potential
Behenic Acid may cause mild irritation or exacerbate fungal acne in sensitive individuals.
Solution: Conduct patch testing before use. Limit concentrations to recommended levels.
Packaging Compatibility
Behenic Acid is generally compatible with most packaging materials but requires protection from air and moisture.
Solution: Use airtight, moisture-resistant containers to maintain product stability.
Regulatory Compliance
Ensure compliance with local regulations regarding maximum allowable concentrations and labeling requirements.
Solution: Consult regulatory guidelines for specific applications and regions.
Is Behenic Acid Safe in Cosmetics?
Safety reports for Behenic Acid are given below:
- Safety Assessment of Fatty Acids & Fatty Acid Salts as Used in Cosmetics. Download PDF
Regulatory Considerations for Using Behenic Acid in Cosmetic Formulations
Few Regulatory considerations are to be taken into account before using Behenic Acid as an ingredient. Given below is the list of those regulations:
REACH Registered Substance: Behenic Acid is registered under REACH with active statuses updated on June 29, 2022, and July 19, 2021.
Note: ECHA’s old registration data is no longer maintained after May 19, 2023.
New Zealand EPA Inventory of Chemical Status: Docosanoic Acid (Behenic Acid) does not have individual approval but may be used under an appropriate group standard.
The Australian Inventory of Industrial Chemicals: Behenic Acid is listed as docosanoic acid in the Australian Inventory of Industrial Chemicals.
Behenic Acid Side Effects
Behenic Acid, or Docosanoic Acid, exhibits an oral LD50 value exceeding 2,000 mg/kg in rats, indicating low acute toxicity. In a study adhering to OECD TG 422, rats were administered doses of 0, 100, 300, and 1,000 mg/kg/day for 42 days, with no fatalities or observable substance-related toxic effects, establishing a NOAEL of 1,000 mg/kg/day for both repeated dose and reproductive/developmental toxicity.
Toxicity assessments reveal that Behenic Acid did not induce mutations in bacterial tests (OECD TG 471, 472) or chromosomal aberrations in vitro (OECD TG 473). Furthermore, acute toxicity tests on aquatic organisms, including algae (Selenastrum capricornutum), Daphnia magna, and fish (Oryzias latipes), show values exceeding its solubility limit of 0.016 mg/L.
Potential Risks
Given below is the list of potential side effects associated with the use of Behenic Acid in cosmetics:
- Colorectal cancer
- Obesity
Interactions
Behenic Acid has been found to promote blood platelet aggregation in washed pig blood platelets, and this effect is further enhanced in the presence of calcium ions. However, when linolenic acid is added at an equal concentration, it completely inhibits the platelet-aggregating effect of Behenic Acid.
Human Toxicity Excerpts
A 53-year-old woman developed recurring palpable purpura (small, raised purple spots) on her ankles and legs, which was linked to exposure to fumes from heat-activated photocopy paper at her workplace. Behenic Acid, a fatty acid component of the paper, was identified as the likely cause through challenge tests simulating her work environment.
Behenic Acid can become airborne when heat-activated paper is used, and inhalation through the upper respiratory tract was considered the probable route of exposure. The exact mechanism of the reaction remains unclear, as immune testing did not confirm a typical allergic (Type III) response. Note: The findings of this report have been questioned and may require further validation.
Non-Human Toxicity Values
In an acute oral toxicity study conducted on rats, the LD₅₀ value of Behenic Acid was found to be greater than 2,000 mg/kg body weight, indicating low acute toxicity. The test substance used in the study had a purity of 85.9%, with identified impurities consisting of C14–C20 fatty acids (10.9%) and C24 fatty acid (2.3%).
Antidote and Emergency Treatment
In cases of significant exposure to organic acids like Behenic Acid, ensure airway management through early intubation if respiratory distress or airway obstruction occurs. Provide positive-pressure ventilation if needed. Treat pulmonary edema with appropriate medications and administer a beta-agonist (e.g., albuterol) for severe bronchospasm.
Monitor cardiac rhythm and manage arrhythmias accordingly. Start IV fluids with D5W at a minimal rate to maintain access; use normal saline or lactated Ringer’s for hypovolemia. Administer fluids cautiously in hypotensive patients and consider vasopressors if necessary. Monitor for fluid overload. For eye exposure, use proparacaine hydrochloride to facilitate irrigation.
Environmental and Sustainability Impact
Behenic Acid is a long-chain fatty acid commonly used in cosmetics for its emollient, moisturizing, and emulsifying properties. While beneficial, its use raises environmental and sustainability considerations:
Environmental Impact
- Water Pollution: Behenic Acid is biodegradable and poses minimal risk to aquatic environments when used in typical cosmetic concentrations. However, improper disposal of products containing Behenic Acid may contribute to localized contamination.
- Carbon Footprint: The extraction of Behenic Acid from natural sources like Moringa seeds or peanut skins involves energy-intensive processes. Sustainable sourcing practices can help mitigate its carbon footprint.
Sustainability
The sustainability of Behenic Acid depends on its sourcing and production methods.
- Raw Materials: Behenic Acid is often derived from renewable plant-based sources such as Moringa oleifera seeds or peanut oil. Overharvesting of these resources could disrupt ecosystems if not managed sustainably.
- Energy Use: Extraction and purification processes require moderate energy input. Cleaner production methods and renewable energy utilization could improve its sustainability.
- End-of-Life Impact: Behenic Acid breaks down naturally in the environment through microbial activity, posing minimal long-term ecological risks.
Biodegradability and Toxicity
Behenic Acid is readily biodegradable and generally non-toxic to the environment under normal use conditions.
Ammonia Toxicity: Not applicable. Behenic Acid does not release ammonia or harmful byproducts during decomposition.
Eco-Friendly Alternatives
While Behenic Acid itself is eco-friendly, alternative emollients and emulsifiers may be used in certain formulations:
- Shea Butter: A natural emollient with similar moisturizing properties that can be sustainably sourced.
- Candelilla Wax: A plant-derived alternative for emulsification with lower environmental impact.
- Plant-Based Fatty Acids: Derived from other renewable sources like coconut oil or olive oil, offering similar benefits.
Alternatives of Behenic Acid and Comparative Analysis
Given below is the list of alternative ingredients that can be used in place of Behenic Acid in cosmetic formulations:
- Tribehenin (Glyceryl Tribehenate)
- Stearic Acid
- Behenyl Alcohol (Docosanol)
- Natural Waxes (e.g., Beeswax, Carnauba Wax, Candelilla Wax)
Comparative analysis of Behenic Acid alternative ingredients:
| Ingredients | Strengths | Limitations | Efficacy | Cost | Stability | Compatibility | Safety |
| Tribehenin (Glyceryl Tribehenate) | Excellent emollient and thickening agent Improves heat stability and texture in stick products Non-crystalline, smooth texture without waxy/grainy feel Provides glossy finish and enhances product pay-off Stable with no odor or discoloration Price stability unlike natural waxes | Synthetic origin may be less preferred in ‘natural’ formulations Less moisturizing than some natural oils | High as emollient, thickener, and texture enhancer | Moderate to high | Very high (heat and oxidation stable) | Excellent in sticks, lip balms, deodorants, creams, lotions | Generally safe and well tolerated |
| Stearic Acid | Widely used thickener and emulsifier Improves skin feel and formulation stability Cost-effective and readily available | Less conditioning than behenic acid Can cause formulation hardness if overused Animal-derived sources may limit vegan formulations | Moderate to high as thickener and emulsifier | Low | High | Good with oils, waxes, and emulsifiers | Generally safe |
| Behenyl Alcohol (Docosanol) | Emollient and thickener with good skin feel Improves viscosity and stability of creams and lotions Natural origin and biodegradable | Less effective as a primary emollient compared to behenic acid May require combination with other emollients for optimal effect | Moderate as thickener and emollient | Moderate | High | Good in creams, lotions, and emulsions | Generally safe and non-irritating |
| Natural Waxes (e.g., Beeswax, Carnauba Wax, Candelilla Wax) | Provide thickening, structuring, and occlusive properties Natural origin favored in clean/natural cosmetics Enhance product texture and stability | Crystalline texture can cause graininess Price and supply can fluctuate with natural sources Potential allergenicity (e.g., beeswax) | High as structuring agents and occlusives | Variable, often higher than synthetic alternatives | Moderate to high | Good with oils and emulsifiers; limited in aqueous systems | Generally safe but watch for allergies |
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