Ascorbyl Palmitate is a fat-soluble antioxidant derived from vitamin C. It is widely used in cosmetic formulations to enhance product stability and support skin health by protecting against oxidative stress. Its role in preserving formulations while providing skin-brightening and rejuvenating benefits makes it an essential ingredient in many skincare products.
CAS Number: 137-66-6
Molecular Formula: C22H38O7
Synonyms:
- Ascorbyl monopalmitate
- Cetyl ascorbate
- Ascorbic acid palmitate (ester)
- Grindox 562
+ 22 more…
- UNII-QN83US2B0N
- UNII-QN83US2B0N
- CCRIS 3930
- HSDB 418
- L-Ascorbyl 6-palmitate
- L-Ascorbic acid 6-palmitate
- EINECS 205-305-4
- SCHEMBL15363
- 6-O-Palmitoyl-L-ascorbic acid, BioXtra, >=99.0%
- Ascorbic acid 6-palmitate, meets USP testing specifications
- 6-O-Palmitoyl-L-ascorbic acid, analytical reference material
- Ascorbyl palmitate, European Pharmacopoeia (EP) Reference Standard
- Ascorbyl palmitate, United States Pharmacopeia (USP) Reference Standard
- Ascorbyl Palmitate, Pharmaceutical Secondary Standard; Certified Reference Material
- Ins no.304
- MFCD00005377
- QN83US2B0N
- DTXSID3041611
- C22H38O7
- (S)-2-((R)-3,4-Dihydroxy-5-oxo-2,5-dihydrofuran-2-yl)-2-hydroxyethyl palmitate
- 6-O-Palmitoyl ascorbate
- L-Ascorbic acid, 6-hexadecanoate
- 6-O-Palmitoyl-L-ascorbic acid
Properties of Ascorbyl Palmitate
Chemical Identifiers
| EC Number | 205-305-4 |
| UNII | QN83US2B0N |
| InChIKey | QAQJMLQRFWZOBN-LAUBAEHRSA-N |
| SMILES | CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCC@@HO)O)O |
| IUPAC Name | [(2S)-2-[(2R)-3,4-dihydroxy-5-oxo-2H-furan-2-yl]-2-hydroxyethyl] hexadecanoate |
| InChI | InChI=1S/C22H38O7/c1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8-9-10-11-12-13-14-15-18(24)28-16-17(23)21-19(25)20(26)22(27)29-21/h17,21,23,25-26H,2-16H2,1H3/t17-,21+/m0/s1 |
Physical and Chemical Properties
Ascorbyl Palmitate is a stable, fat-soluble derivative of vitamin C that appears as a white or yellowish powder with a characteristic citrus odor. It dissolves well in oils but has limited water solubility, making it suitable for lipid-based cosmetic formulations. Its antioxidant properties are valuable in protecting formulations from degradation and maintaining product quality.
| Property | Value |
| Odor | Citrus-like aroma |
| Color/Form | White or yellowish-white powder |
| Solubility | Soluble in alcohol, animal oils, and vegetable oils; slightly soluble in water |
| Melting Point | 107–117°C |
| Optical Rotation | [α]D/20 between +21° and +24° (5% w/v in methanol solution) |
| Collision Cross Section | 204.8 Ų [M+H]+ [CCS Type: TW; Method: calibrated with polyalanine and drug standards] |
| Other Experimental Properties | Approximately 16.92 mg/m³ corresponds to 1 ppm in air |
Structural Properties
Ascorbyl Palmitate is a moderately complex molecule with no electrical charge. It has a flexible structure with several movable parts, allowing it to interact easily within different environments. It can form hydrogen bonds, helping it mix with both water and fats to some extent.
Its surface has areas that can interact with water, and its structure includes a few defined 3D shapes. Overall, it balances oil-like and water-friendly characteristics, making it suitable for use in both food and cosmetic products as a stabilizer or antioxidant.
| Property | Value |
| XLogP3 | 6.3 |
| Complexity | 515 |
| Exact Mass | 414.26175355 g/mol |
| Formal Charge | 0 |
| Heavy Atom Count | 29 |
| Molecular Weight | 414.5 g/mol |
| Monoisotopic Mass | 414.26175355 g/mol |
| Isotope Atom Count | 0 |
| Rotatable Bond Count | 18 |
| Compound Is Canonicalized | Yes |
| Hydrogen Bond Donor Count | 3 |
| Hydrogen Bond Acceptor Count | 7 |
| Topological Polar Surface Area | 113 Ų |
| Defined Atom Stereocenter Count | 2 |
| Defined Bond Stereocenter Count | 0 |
| Undefined Atom Stereocenter Count | 0 |
| Undefined Bond Stereocenter Count | 0 |
Uses of Ascorbyl Palmitate in Cosmetics
Functional role in cosmetics:
- Ascorbyl Palmitate is used as a Antioxidant agent in cosmetics.
Other uses:
- Used as a preservative and antioxidant in cosmetic and food formulations.
Cosmetic Products Containing Ascorbyl Palmitate
Recent products using Ascorbyl Palmitate in their cosmetic formulations
- Sonage C Shield Smart Serum
- One Love Organics Love + Eyebright Eye Serum
- GloryScent Beauty Manketti Oil Serum
- Blissoma Timeless Vitamin C Reconstruction Concentrate
- Fresh Creme Ancienne Face Oil Elixir
- Suki Radical Results Youth Serum
- KPS Essentials Antioxidant Eye Repair Serum
Top companies using Ascorbyl Palmitate in their cosmetic products
- Sonage
- One Love Organics
- GloryScent Beauty
- Blissoma
- Fresh
- Suki
- KPS Essentials
How Ascorbyl Palmitate Works in Formulations
Ascorbyl Palmitate is a fat-soluble form of vitamin C that provides antioxidant protection and skin brightening benefits in cosmetic formulations. It is commonly used in skincare, haircare, and anti-aging products, especially when stability in oily systems is key.
Ideal Concentration and Benefits in Different Formulations
Antioxidant and Stabilizer
Ascorbyl Palmitate is primarily used for its antioxidant properties, helping to protect formulations from oxidation and extend shelf life.
- Concentration: 0.05%–0.5%
- Benefit: It helps stabilize products that contain other unstable ingredients (such as oils) from going rancid, helping your product stay effective longer. In skincare products, it helps prevent damage from free radicals and provide anti-aging benefits.
Fat-Soluble Vitamin C
Ascorbyl Palmitate is a fat-soluble form of vitamin C, making it suitable for oil-based and emulsion formulations. It is often included in products like serums, moisturizers, and sunscreens that require oil solubility for better penetration and stability.
- Concentration: 0.1%–1%
- Benefit: It can penetrate deeper into the skin and hold up better over time, especially in formulas that need stability.
Skin Brightening and Anti-Aging
Known for its skin-brightening and anti-aging effects, Ascorbyl Palmitate helps fade dark spots and improve skin texture.
- Concentration: 0.5%–2%
- Benefit: It inhibits melanin production (for brightening) and encourages collagen synthesis (for firming). It is a more stable alternative to ascorbic acid in formulations but may still offer similar benefits.
Compatibility with Other Ingredients
- Ascorbyl Palmitate is compatible with most other cosmetic ingredients, including emulsifiers, surfactants, and preservatives.
- It can be combined with other antioxidants like vitamin E (tocopherol) or coenzyme Q10 to enhance its protective effects against free radical damage.
- Care should be taken when formulating with highly acidic ingredients, as this may affect stability.
Stability and Shelf Life
One of the best things about Ascorbyl Palmitate is its stability, especially compared to other ascorbic acid.
- Shelf life: 12–24 months
- Best storage: Keep it in airtight, opaque containers to protect from light and air.
Formulation Challenges and Troubleshooting
Ascorbyl Palmitate is generally considered stable, but there are some formulation challenges and troubleshooting tips to ensure its optimal performance:
Solubility and Dispersibility
Ascorbyl Palmitate is fat-soluble, which can make it challenging to incorporate into water-based formulations.
Solution: Ensure the formulation is oil-based or use it in emulsions. If necessary, pre-dissolve Ascorbyl Palmitate in a suitable carrier oil before adding to the formula.
Oxidation and Degradation
Although Ascorbyl Palmitate is more stable than ascorbic acid, it can still degrade over time when exposed to light, air, or high heat.
Solution: Store products in opaque, airtight packaging and avoid exposure to high temperatures during formulation. Ensure the product is stored in cool, dry conditions to prolong shelf life.
Effectiveness in Low Concentrations
In some formulations, Ascorbyl Palmitate may not be as potent as ascorbic acid, especially at low concentrations, and may require higher amounts to show visible results.
Solution: Use it in combination with other antioxidants like tocopherol or ascorbic acid to enhance the overall antioxidant effect. Alternatively, consider higher concentrations of Ascorbyl Palmitate in the formulation.
Skin Sensitivity
Although generally safe for most skin types, some individuals may experience irritation or sensitivity when using products containing Ascorbyl Palmitate, especially at higher concentrations.
Solution: Conduct patch testing for sensitive skin formulations. Use lower concentrations (0.1%–0.5%) in sensitive formulations and gradually increase if needed.
Interaction with Other Ingredients
Ascorbyl palmitate may interact with some highly acidic or basic ingredients, potentially affecting its stability or effectiveness.
Solution: Avoid combining Ascorbyl Palmitate with highly acidic or basic ingredients unless carefully formulated. Conduct compatibility testing to ensure stability in the final product.
Is Ascorbyl Palmitate Safe in Cosmetics?
Safety reports for Ascorbyl Palmitate are given below:
- Safety Assessment of Ethers and Esters of Ascorbic Acid as Used in Cosmetics. Download PDF
- Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Ascorbyl Palmitate, Ascorbyl Dipalmitate, Ascorbyl Stearate, Erythorbic Acid, and sodium Erythorbate. Download PDF
Regulatory Considerations for Using Ascorbyl Palmitate in Cosmetic Formulations
Few Regulatory considerations are to be taken into account before using Ascorbyl Palmitate as an ingredient. Given below is the list of those regulations:
FDA Requirements: Recognized as safe (GRAS) when used as a chemical preservative in animal drugs, feeds, and related products, provided good manufacturing practices are followed.
FIFRA Requirements: Exempt from tolerance requirements when used as an inert or active ingredient in pesticide formulations for agricultural use, following good agricultural practices.
New Zealand EPA Inventory of Chemical Status: Approved for use under appropriate group standards without requiring individual approval.
Ascorbyl Palmitate Side Effects
Ascorbyl Palmitate exhibits low toxicity and is generally considered safe for use in food and cosmetics. Animal studies indicate minimal risk even at high doses, with no significant adverse effects reported.
Its biodegradable nature and non-toxic breakdown products make it environmentally friendly. Nonetheless, appropriate usage and monitoring are recommended to ensure safety and efficacy in diverse applications.
Human Toxicity Excerpts
- Human Exposure Studies: In a modified Draize assay, Ascorbyl Palmitate was tested for skin sensitization potential at concentrations of 1%, 3%, and 5%. Minimal to no reactions were observed, indicating low sensitization potential under study conditions.
- Other Toxicity Information: Studies on glutathione-S-transferase (GST) activity indicate Ascorbyl Palmitate may inhibit certain enzymes, with no significant systemic toxicity reported.
Non-Human Toxicity Values
The LD50 for dermal exposure in guinea pigs is greater than 3 g/kg, indicating low toxicity through skin contact.
Non-Human Toxicity Excerpts
Laboratory Animals: In ocular irritation studies, a 10% solution of Ascorbyl Palmitate was found to be non-irritating to rabbit eyes.
Antidote and Emergency Treatment
- Immediate First Aid: Flush exposed areas with water. Avoid inducing vomiting if ingested. Administer oxygen if respiratory distress occurs and seek medical attention immediately.
- Basic Treatment: Ensure clear airways, provide oxygen as needed, and treat for pulmonary distress or eye irritation. Apply sterile dressings to skin if burns occur.
- Advanced Treatment: Consider intubation for respiratory complications. Administer fluids for hypotension if needed. Monitor cardiac and respiratory functions and address any systemic effects promptly.
Environmental and Sustainability Impact
Ascorbyl Palmitate is a fat-soluble ester of ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and palmitic acid, commonly used in cosmetics as an antioxidant and stabilizer. While it provides beneficial effects in formulations, its environmental impact requires consideration:
Environmental Impact
- Water Pollution: Ascorbyl Palmitate is not highly water-soluble, so it poses minimal risk of water pollution. However, like many fat-soluble ingredients, it can accumulate in the environment if not properly disposed of.
- Carbon Footprint: The production of Ascorbyl Palmitate involves the synthesis of both ascorbic acid and palmitic acid, which are typically derived from petrochemical or plant sources. The environmental impact largely depends on the source of these raw materials.
Sustainability
The sustainability of Ascorbyl Palmitate depends on its source and production processes.
- Raw Materials: Ascorbyl Palmitate is derived from ascorbic acid and palmitic acid, the latter of which can be sourced from palm oil. The use of sustainably sourced palm oil can improve the environmental sustainability of the product.
- Energy Use: The energy used in the synthesis of Ascorbyl Palmitate is relatively low compared to other ingredients, but energy consumption will vary depending on the scale and production methods.
- End-of-Life Impact: Ascorbyl Palmitate is biodegradable, but the fat-soluble nature means it could persist in the environment longer than water-soluble compounds, especially if disposed of improperly.
Biodegradability and Toxicity
Ascorbyl Palmitate is considered biodegradable, breaking down into ascorbic acid and palmitic acid. Both of these components are non-toxic to aquatic life at low concentrations.
- Toxicity: There is no significant toxicity associated with Ascorbyl Palmitate when used at cosmetic concentrations. It is generally regarded as safe for human use, although, like many ingredients, overuse may cause skin irritation.
- Environmental Impact: It poses minimal risk to the environment when used in cosmetics as long as waste disposal is managed properly.
Eco-Friendly Alternatives
There are several alternatives to Ascorbyl Palmitate that may offer a lower environmental impact:
- Ascorbyl Stearate: A similar fat-soluble vitamin C derivative, ascorbyl stearate, often derived from stearic acid, which may offer comparable antioxidant properties with a potentially lower environmental impact.
- Tocopherol (Vitamin E): A more widely used antioxidant in cosmetics, vitamin E is plant-derived and generally considered more sustainable, especially when sourced from non-GMO crops.
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